RetroGlam 1950s Style Sheath Skirt with Back Kickpleat

The following instructions will help you recreate a skirt similar to View 3 in this pattern illustration.

Before drafting your Sheath Skirt pattern you will need to add style ease to your body measurements. Use the following guide to perform your calculations:

Waist Measurment + 1 to 1 1/2″ ease
Hip Circumference + 3″ ease
Front Skirt Length should fall at mid-calf. For a woman of 5′ 5″ to 5′ 6″ wearing a Misses Size 4 the Front Skirt Length of 27″ works well.

Construct the Basic Skirt Front and Basic Skirt Back using the resulting Waist and Hip Circumference when drafting the pattern.

Please read through all instructions for the Basic Skirt Front and Back since I include instructions on how to determine the pattern width if your Abdomen Circumference is larger than the Hip Circumference.

Back Skirt Pattern with additions for Kickpleat and Inverted Kickpleat.

1. To create the Center Back Kickpleat, measure out 3″ from Center Back of the Back Skirt Pattern at the hemline and at the top. Connect these two points.

2. Fold along the Center Back line and cut along the Waistline curve.

3. Open out the pattern and cut out along the Hem and Side Seam lines.

The shorter extension shown after the Center Back Kickpleat in the pattern diagram is for a skirt with Inverted Kickpleat. I have not included these instructions since I have found that such a kickpleat sometimes is too bulky and presents a problem when the fashion fabric is dry cleaned and pressed. Anyone making a skirt like this should insist the dry cleaner hand press the skirt using brown paper between the kickpleat and the skirt back. This extra step will prevent an unslightly impression being made on the outside of the skirt.

I will show the basic sewing of the kickpleat and waistband once the muslin is cut.

This type of kickpleat runs the entire length of the back skirt resulting in no display of leg when the kickpleat opens while walking. It is especially suitable for those who prefer modesty in dressing and also avoids the sagging that can happen when the kickpleat is shorter and stitched down from the top of the skirt. The back skirt fabric also is not marred by the top stitching seen on skirts with shorter kickpleats which must be topstitched to hold them in place.

The kickpleat works well when measured 7″ up from the hemline of the pattern for a woman 5’4″ to about 5′ 6″ tall. The actual measurement up from the hem can be changed based on your height. That is why making a toile is always best.

The Center Back seam is sewed from the end of the zipper down to the point where the kickpleat opens.

Instructions for the waistband will be posted next.

Links to series for patternmaking of RetroGlam Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow

Links to series for patternmaking of RetroGlam Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow

Pattern envelope illustration that acted as source of inspiration

http://wp.me/p3y3fG-eI

Photos of the toile which used the RetroGlam pattern

http://wp.me/p3y3fG-eX

Secretary blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 1: The Bodice Pattern
-How to add style ease
-Includes links to drafting instructions of the Basic Bodice Front and Back

http://wp.me/p3y3fG-f1

Secretary Blouse with Pussy Cat Bow Part 2: The Blouse Sleeve
-Includes link to Basic, Unfitted Sleeve
-Detailed instructions given to use the Basic, Unfitted Sleeve as a basis for the Blouse Sleeve gathered into cuff.
-Drafting of cuff pattern included.

http://wp.me/p3y3fG-f5

Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 3: Creating a Horizontal Side Dart
-Instructions to change the dart on the Basic Unfitted Bodice into a Horizontal Side Dart.
-This dart manipulation MUST be made since the fitting dart of the Basic Bodice is higher up and will not look good on a finished garment.

http://wp.me/p3y3fG-fb

Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 4: Lengthening the Bodice and Shaping the Neckline
-How to lengthen the Basic Bodice for use as a blouse.
-Shaping a gently curved V-Neckline for the front of the blouse.

http://wp.me/p3y3fG-fe

Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 5: Adding Ease at Hipline and Dart Tucks
-Instructions for a simple pattern transformation using the Unfitted Bodice
–Creating slight shaping at the waistline
–Adding enough ease at the Hipline
–Adding vertical dart tucks to create shaping and eliminate some bulk on the lower part of the blouse from Waistline to Hip Line.

http://wp.me/p3y3fG-fh

Note: Many 1950s blouses had numerous vertical darts or tucks running down to the Hip Line. I think this technique created a close fit similar to a Blouse With a Waistline Yoke.

Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 6: Pattern for the Bow
-The principles used to create a Pussycat Bow pattern
-Discussion of the benefits in cutting the bow on the true bias

http://wp.me/p3y3fG-fS

Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 6: Pattern for the Bow

It takes a lot more fabric to cut a Pussycat Bow on the true bias. The results, though, are well worth it. The finished bow will drape beautifully. It will also follow the curve of the neckline smoothly so long as care is taken in the cutting and sewing.

Since the Retro Glam version of the 1950s Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow has a lower neckline even more fabric is required than would be for a blouse with a higher neckline following the shape of the neckline.

If a Pussycat Bow is cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain the fabric will circle the neckline in a satisfactory manner but it will lack the softness of one cut on the true bias. The bow, too, will not have any softness or fullness. Instead of looking appealing, the bow will droop. It will not have the fullness that a bias cut bow will.

The choice is up to you. I recommend experimenting with inexpensive lightweight muslin, calico and gingham to see what appeals to you. Using a gingham or striped fabric will also stimulate creative ideas from comparing how prints and stripes will look for a bow when cut on the straight grain or true bias.

The pattern follows…
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Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 3: Creating a Horizontal Side Dart

The Basic Unfitted Bodice is drafted to include Style Ease as described in Part 1 of this series of postings for the Secretary Blouse.

The vintage pattern illustration used as the basis for the RetroGlam Secretary Blouse has a horizontal side dart. The instructions which follow detail how to create this dart on the Basic Unfitted Bodice Front.
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