Note: The sample measurements provided are for a Misses Size 4. Substitute your own measurements.
This waistband is for a skirt with a lapped zipper in the left side seam.
Waistline Circumference + 1″ style ease + 3/4″ for underlap.
For Misses Size 4 Waistline is 24″.
Calculation: 24″ + 1″ + 3/4″ = 25 3/4″
Your preferred height for the waistband.
1. Measure the waistline of your half-circle skirt pattern. It should be equal to half your own waistline circumference plus about 1/2″ or more for ease. This measurement is half the finished measurement of your skirt. Double this amount to reach the finished measurement for your waistline of the skirt.
Compare to the measurement calculated for adding the ease, underlap and your waistline circumference. If you need to add more do so by dividing the additional amount by 4. Add the result at the waistline and taper to nothing at the hip. It is best to make further adjutments after making a sample.
2. Select a height for the finished waistband that works well for your figure. This is an important factor in creating the balanced look between the fitted blouse and the fullness in the half-circle skirt. Please refer to the posting concerning waistband height and construction tips. For Misses Size 4 the width is 1″.
Drafting the Waistband
1. Draw the A-B line using your waist circumference + 1″ + 3/4″ measurement. For Misses Size 4 A-B is
2. From A draw a line downwards double the amount of your waistband height. Label it A-C. For Misses Size 4 A-C=2″.
3. From C draw a line of the same length as A-B. Label the end point D. C-D for size 4 = 25 3/4″.
4. From D upwards draw a line the same as A-C. For size 4 this A-C line is 2″.
5. From the A-B line measure down half the height of A-C. For size 4 it is 1″. Draw a line at this point across the waistband pattern. Label it E-F.
6. Place the markings for lengthwise grainline on E-F.
7. From A-E-C measure inwards 3/4″ and draw a vertical line. Label the line G-H.
8. Fold the pattern draft in half matching G-H with B-F-D. Open and draw a line on this fold and label it I-J. Mark a dot at each end of I-J. This will be the match point for the right hand side seam. Label the pattern with this to make the matching easier, if you want.
9. Fold along the I-J line again. Then fold this in half again. Open the pattern draft.
10. You have now divided the waistband into match points. Near the underlap label the fold line K-L and draw a vertical line. This is will be placed near the Center Back of the skirt.
11. Points B-F-D are te left hand side of the waistband that gets placed at the front left side seam.
12. The fold line after B-F-D is matched to the Center Front of the skirt. Draw a line at this fold and label it M-N.
You can also add dots to the lines and add dots on the skirt pattern to create the match points for each. The half-circle skirt waistline may need some easing into the waistband. It should result in a smooth line but not look gathered. The final adjustments are made when a toile is fitted. Since the half circle skirt goes on the bias towards the side seams there is a possibility of more stretch than may be needed.
13. Mark “Cut One Piece” on your pattern piece and add 1/2″ seam allowances all around. You may do this after drafting or when cutting.
14. The E-F line is the fold line.