The Donna Skirt: Lapped Zipper Application in a bias side seam-Part 2

The back part of the skirt gets the zipper stitched in while the seam is open. I found this made the process easier given the large amount of fabric I’d have to handle if the seam remained closed.

11. With the right side of the fabric up prepare the back side seam for the zipper. The second line of thread tracing gets gently folded into place. If necessary baste it into place to prevent stretching.

12. The zipper goes under the folded seam. Notice the pink line of stitches. This is the seamline. Keeping the zipper closed, pin it into place on the folded seam. I found that pinning vertically did not work well. Pinning at right angles to the seam also didn’t help. Both of these actions caused the fabric to distort. I found that I had to pin on an angle. The fabric stayed flat.

13. I used white thread to baste close to the zipper teeth. This became the guideline for the permanent stiching. A double strand of thread was used for the pick stitch which sews the zipper in place.

14. View of the back seam after zipper is sewn in place to it. This is the right side of the fashion fabric.

15. The front seam stitching line was traced in pink thread. Then turned to inside and basted in place.

16. The front seam is then lapped over the back, matching the front thread traced seam line to the back thread traced seam line. The back part of the zipper is covered by the front. The front seam is pinned in place.

Again, I had to pin on the diagonal.

17. I didn’t think I’d have to sew the seam closed using the diagonal basting shown here. I had planned to just baste the front of the side seam into place but the fabric started to move around too much.

18. I used two rows of basting stiches to hold the zipper and seam down again. The pink stitches are the guide for the pick stitches.

I thought this process would never end but having made a mess out of a zipper sewn into another skirt similar to this one I learned to go easy when it comes to seams on the bias.

19. After the zipper was securely basted into place I used the seam ripper to gently remove the diagonal basting.

20. After removing the diagonal basting threads, the zipper is opened in preapartion for pick stitching into the seam.

Next: Finishing the zipper application and evaluating the results.

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