The Donna Skirt: Lapped Zipper Application in a bias side seam-Part 3

The process is almost completed. Sewing the zipper in is the easy part. It’s mostly the preparation that requires the extra effort.

21. Using a double strand of thread, use a pick stitch along the sewing guide line. Mine was the pink thread tracing.

Note: I used a Mettresene 100% polyester thread because it has greater flexibility.

22. The pick stitch continues to the end of the zipper and then across to the seam. After removing the bastings and thread tracings it’s done.

23. Inside view of the finished zipper. I used some left over hem tape to finish the ends of the zipper but this step is totally optional. I did notice, though, that the side seam pulled a little to the front so I clipped at that point. Thankfully the rest of the seam lay flat.

24. The zipper and seam is ready for a pressing. Smooth out the fabric on the ironing board using a motion that goes with the diagonal direction of the grain. If the fabric is smoothed straight down or across there is a risk for stretching it too much.

25. Put a press cloth on top of the skirt and lightly steam, making sure the iron does not touch the press cloth. Pat down on the press cloth before removing it.

26. Let the fabric dry before handling by placing it on a flat surface.

27. A lapped zipper application usually has the stitches for the lapped portion about 3/8″ to 1/2″ from the seamline. My zipper stitching was 1/2″ in which means things went ok. The stabilizing and extra care taken ensured the pick stitches didn’t go any further than that.

28. When the skirt is pinned into place on the dress form, the zipper lies flat with no gaping. The zipper is not visible at all. The extra effort was worth it, I think. If the application did not work out I’d have to rip out the stitches and risk distorting the side seam shape.

Please note that the zipper shows slightly at the top because the waistband and the hooks and eyes to hold it in place have yet to be sewn in.

The right hand side seam is sewn the same way using the stabilizing strips running from waist to hip line. Lap basting is used to hold the seam in place. After stitching it’s pinked and pressed open.

I recommend that you see how the zipper looks while you’re basting it into place by placing it along your own body. You can always adjust or remove the temporary stitches much easier than the pick stitches.


2 thoughts on “The Donna Skirt: Lapped Zipper Application in a bias side seam-Part 3

    • Thank you, Norma. I learned by trial and error. It’s all worth it when I can offer some useful info for others and encourage them to give it a try.


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