The Donna Skirt: Hemming a flared or circle skirt with organza bias tape

Now that the preliminary steps of preparing the hem and making the bias hem tape are completed the hand sewing can be done.

1. After pinning and basting the organza tape into place it is machine sewn to the hem of the skirt.

2. Carefully remove the basting threads by cutting every few inches. I find a seam ripper or small scissors are good for doing this part. I then use a micro tweezer to remove the basting threads.

3. Using your cutting shears, trim away the seam allowance where the tape was sewn to the skirt hem.
Note: Please remember that the basting stitches at the very bottom of the skirt are still in place. This makes it easier to give the finished hem a second steam pressing.

4. Turn the organza bias hem tape upwards as the skirt lies on the ironing board. Insert a wide strip of brown paper to minimize marking the skirt fabric. I recommend using a burst of steam while holding the iron above the skirt. Pat the fabric down after each burst of steam. Continue with this until the entire hem has been pressed and the organza seam tape lines flat.

Allow to cool.

5. Pin and baste the hem tape to the skirt before beginning to hand sew the hem. This step keeps the bias cut of the hem tape stable and minimizes stretching while handling the hem.

6a. Slip stitch the join in the bias hem tape and then begin hemming the skirt. Use a slip stitch. Begin by taking a tiny stitch into the fabric of the skirt slightly above the hem tape.

6b. Slanting the needle downward, take another small stitch into the fold of the hem tape.

6c. Bring the needle up and out of the fold of the hem tape. Take another small stitch of the skirt fabric and continue steps 6a-6c around the skirt.

7. A portion of the finished hem after all basting threads are removed. On the right side of the skirt the small slip stitches will not be visible if the thread is a good match to the fabric’s color.

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