Roll Collar with Neckline Facing, Part 2: Preparing the collar and sewing the facing

The Roll Collar is constructed and steam pressed before this part of the process is begun.

2 A. If steam pressing has diminished the visibility of the dressmaker’s tracing paper markings, use Tailor’s Chalk to mark the neckline curve. You may stay stitch the neckline if needed before clipping it so that it will curve smoothly to the neckline of the bodice.

2 B. Stitch the front and back bodice together at the shoulder seams. Finish the seams (pinking, straight stitch, or zig-zag) and steam press open. The neckline can be stay stitched by machine or if the fabric is lightweight and not prone to shredding by hand.

2 C. Now the facing is constructed. It is best to do this before stitching the side seams of the bodice so that the garment lies flat when sewing. Pin, baste and stitch the front facing to the back neckline facing at the shoulder seams. Remove bastings and finish seams before steam pressing.

2 D. View of joined facing.

2 E. Pin and baste the collar along the neckline of the bodice on the right side of the fabric. Match the markings for center front, shoulders and center back. Pin and baste the collar into place.

2 F. Now turn the facing to be over the collar, right sides of fabric together and wrong side uppermost.

2 G. Pin and baste the facing in place.

2 H. After basting, check the right side of the facing to make sure the fabric is smooth and no little tucks appear (1st photo). Do the same for the neckline of the bodice (2nd photo).

2 I. Stitch from center back to the ends of the lapel line (or neckline) at the front of the blouse. Repeat for other side of the neckline. Leave a long tail of thread at center back.

2 J. After stitching collar and facing to neckline, knot the threads at center back.

The collar is now ready to be finger pressed.

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