Roll Collar with Neckline Facing, Part 3: Finger Pressing the seams open and stay stitching by hand

Many sewing books show the pressing of a collar using a Tailor’s Board and steam iron. At school we were showed a way of finger pressing seams open that created a clean finish without the extra wear and shine that over pressing and handling can produce.

3 A. Remove all basting threads, grade seams and clip neckline seam. Use a Tailor Board for this pressing.


3 B. Place the neckline seam upon the Tailor’s Board and use your fingers to press the seam open by running them along the seamline.

3 C. (No Photo) After the neckline seam is pressed open, press it closed and downwards towards the facing.

3 D. Turn to right side and again use your fingers to press down the seam line along the neckline.

3 E. Beginning at shoulders and working only along the back of the neckline facing, use a small pick stitch to hold the facing in place.

If the bodice or blouse does not have lapels then the stitching can be used over the entire neckline edge of the inside facing.

Side seams may now be stitched. If the blouse has a waistline yoke or peplum, that is stitched after the side seams. All seams are finished and steam pressed open.

3 F. View of completed blouse with waistline yoke already hemmed. Facing can now be finished by straight stitching along the 1/2″ seam line and pinking the ediges. Instead of pinking a zig-zag stitch or hand overcasting may be used. I finish the edges using the same lace as I do for the hemline.

Next step: Using lace hem tape to finish the facing.

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