Basic Skirt Front-Alteration for Misses Size 4

ALTERATION FOR BASIC SKIRT FRONT PATTERN FOR MISSES SIZE 4 (USING STANDARD SIZE MEASUREMENTS)

When using the measurements for Misses Size 4, it may be necessary to adjust the front skirt pattern during the fitting.

I found that on my dress form, the Front Skirt was too wide on the Basic Fitting Shell. I had to take in 3/4″ total at the waist all the way down to the hem in order to achieve a smooth fit.

The diagram shows how to make this alteration if needed.

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Basic Skirt Back Drafting Instructions

The measurements given are for a Misses Size 4. Please substitute your own measurements

The skirt length is for a retro styled basic skirt circa late 1940s through 1950s. The skirt would be mid-calf length about 26″- 27″ long at Center Front for a woman 5′ 5″ to 5′ 6″ tall.

The instructions which follow do not have additional style ease added. The ease will be given for individual styles when new RetroGlam projects are presented. What follows are the instructions for the basic fitting shell. Add only as much ease as needed so that the skirt fits closely and can be pinned at center back for fit evaluation.

When a pattern is drafted for a particular style ease is added to the Waist and Hip measurements. The length from the floor is also adjusted for the finished skirt length.

See the page “How to Take Measurements” for instructions on how to take your own measurements. Included are examples of the taking of skirt measurements.

Pattern draft is shown without seam allowances. You may add 1/2″ seam allowances after drafting. Alternately, you can lay the pattern onto the fabric and measure out 1/2″ using a clear plastic ruler. Tailor’s Chalk is used to mark the cutting lines (non-wax kind). Dressmaker’s Tracing paper and a serrated tracing wheel are used to mark darts and grain lines.

Measurements Needed

Note: Sample Measurements are Misses Size 4. Please use your own measurements and perform the calculations using them.

Waist…………………24″
Hip*………………….36″
Waist-to-Hip Length**….. 8″
Front Skirt Length……..43 1/2″-17 1/2″=26″
Side Skirt Length………44″ – 17 1/2″=26 1/2″
Back Skirt Length………43″-17 1/2″=25 1/2″

17 1/2″ is the height from the floor.

*Some women’s Abdomen measurement is larger than their Hip Measurement. If this is the case substitute the Abdomen Measurement for the Hip Measurement

**If you are using your Abdomen Measurement substitute the waist-to-Abdomen measurement for the Waist-to-Hip Length.

The reason for this is to allow for the maximum circumference of the rectangle to accommodate the largest part of the torso below the waistline.

For retro inspired styles, the height from the floor is usually 16″ – 18″ for a woman 5′ 5″ to 5′ 6″.

Adjust to your own height. Measurement is taken in high heels or shoes with a heel height that will be suitable for your vintage inspired outfit.
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Basic Skirt Front Drafting Instructions

BASIC SKIRT
Front

The measurements given are for a Misses Size 4. Please substitute your own measurements

The skirt length is for a retro styled basic skirt circa late 1940s through 1950s. The skirt would be mid-calf length about 26″- 27″ long at Center Front for a woman 5′ 5″ to 5′ 6″ tall.

The instructions which follow do not have additional style ease added. The ease will be given for individual styles when new RetroGlam projects are presented. What follows are the instructions for the basic fitting shell. Add only as much ease as needed so that the skirt fits closely and can be pinned at center back for fit evaluation.

When a pattern is drafted for a particular style ease is added to the Waist and Hip measurements. The length from the floor is also adjusted for the finished skirt length.

See the page “How to Take Measurements” for instructions on how to take your own measurements. Included are examples of the taking of skirt measurements.

Pattern draft is shown without seam allowances. You may add 1/2″ seam allowances after drafting. Alternately, you can lay the pattern onto the fabric and measure out 1/2″ using a clear plastic ruler. Tailor’s Chalk is used to mark the cutting lines (non-wax kind). Dressmaker’s Tracing paper and a serrated tracing wheel are used to mark darts and grain lines.

Measurements Needed

Note: Sample Measurements are Misses Size 4. Please use your own measurements and perform the calculations using them.

Waist…………………24″
Hip*………………….36″
Waist-to-Hip Length**….. 8″
Front Skirt Length……..43 1/2″-17 1/2″=26″
Side Skirt Length………44″ – 17 1/2″=26 1/2″

17 1/2″ is the height from the floor.

*Some women’s Abdomen measurement is larger than their Hip Measurement. If this is the case substitute the Abdomen Measurement for the Hip Measurement

**If you are using your Abdomen Measurement substitute the waist-to-Abdomen measurement for the Waist-to-Hip Length.

The reason for this is to allow for the maximum circumference of the rectangle to accommodate the largest part of the torso below the waistline.

For retro inspired styles, the height from the floor is usually 16″ – 18″ for a woman 5′ 5″ to 5′ 6″.

Adjust to your own height. Measurement is taken in high heels or shoes with a heel height that will be suitable for your vintage inspired outfit.
Continue reading

New Project: 1950s Styled Sheath Skirt

As part of the next RetroGlam Patternmaking and Sewing Project, I’m going to draft a simple 1950s style sheath skirt. The finished skirt will be worn with the version of a Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow I’m also working on.

In the next two postings I present the drafting instructions for the fitting shell of a basic skirt. The pencil skirt that is part of the current project will have a few modifications made to the basic pattern including the addition of an unusual kickpleat at center back along with the zipper application used.

Once the muslin for the sheath skirt has been completed, I will post photos of it and the blouse toile. Instructions for adding style ease to the basic patterns and the transformations used will be included.

Please see the next two postings for the skirt fitting shell drafting instructions. There will be a third posting on an alteration needed for the Size 4 Skirt Fitting Shell that may arise for you should you use the Standard Size 4 measurements provided here. As always, there is the possibility of alterations needed to any pattern whether you use your own measurements or Standard Measurements.

The finished sheath skirt will be something like View C in the vintage pattern shown above.

New Project: Secretary Blouse with Bow and Sheath Skirt

The previous postings on how to draft a Basic Unfitted Bodice and Sleeve provide the foundation for recreating a style of Secretary Blouse with Bow similar to this vintage pattern envelope illustration I found on Pinterest.

The basic patterns will be used to recreate a style similar to #1 on this pattern envelope. I’m in the process of cutting and sewing up the toile. When it’s done, I’m going to post the photos.

The Basic Unfitted bodice is first drafted and then transformed to include details that will bring it close to the illustration.

I have not been able to find which pattern company created this style so I do not have the back pattern envelope with the illustration of the back view.

This style, though, is simple enough and will lend itself to interpretation. To keep the blouse smooth when it is tucked in, it looks like there are tucks stitched from the hem of the blouse and released slightly above the waistband. I have added four such tucks to the back of the blouse and one on each side of the front. This should control the fullness below the waistline so that the sheath skirt will fall smoothly over the hips.

The side bust dart on the Basic Unfitted Bodice Front is lowered.

For the sleeve, I’ve transformed the Basic Unfitted Sleeve into the Blouse Sleeve with cuff and placket. The sleeve will be gathered into the cuff.

Once the bodice is finished I have to see if I cut the bow on the straight grain or the bias.

When the toile is completed, I’ll post photos and the instructions for pattern transformation.

The sheath skirt pattern and sewing tutorials for it will come after completion of the blouse.

How to make the side dart “vanish” on an Unfitted Basic Bodice Front

The Side Dart of the Basic Unfitted Bodice (Points M-U-W) must be no wider than 1 1/2″. This technique works on the Basic Unfitted Bodice pattern created from the draft detailed in this blog posting, “How to Draft the Basic Unfitted Front Bodice”.
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Adding a Facing for Blouse with Collar, Collar and Lapels or Button Down Front

This facing is added to the draft for the Basic Unfitted Front Bodice Pattern.

Step 1: Lengthen blouse below waistline. The amount will vary with the style of blouse. Many blouses of the 1950s end 4-5″ below the waistline. Modern blouses can end 7-9″ below the waistline. Consider whether you will create a pattern for a tuck-in blouse or an overblouse. A longer blouse length ensures that a tucked in blouse will not completely rise up over the waistband and require frequent tucking in.

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