Drafting the Basic Unfitted Back Bodice with Shoulder Dart Pattern

Please read through all instructions before drafting.

See “How to Take Measurements” for complete instructions on obtaining your personal measurements used in this system.

Completed Pattern draft is shown without seam allowances. Add 1/2″ seam allowances after pinning pattern to fabric. Measure out from pattern edges using Tailor’s Chalk and a clear plastic ruler.

Basic Back Bodice with Shoulder Dart

A shoulder dart is needed when the Inclination of the Shoulder measurement is greater than 2″. If the measurement is just 2 1/16 to 2 1/8″ a dart is not needed but anything larger than that requires a dart for accurate fitting.

First make the back bodice pattern using instructions for the Unfitted or Fitted Back Bodice pattern.

Basic Back Bodice with Shoulder Dart – Drafting

Then proceed as follows:

1. Measure 1″ down from Points A and B.

2. Mark these new points H1 and G1 and join by a horizontal line.

3. Mark on the ruler the measurement Shoulder Width plus 1/2″. Place one end or the ruler on Point F. Use the other end to touch the horizontal H1 G1 line. Mark Point J1 at the intersection of these two lines.

4. Join Points F and J1 with a straight line.

5. Extend the N-O line upwards until it touches the H1 and G1 line. Label Point o1.

6. From O1 measure 2″ down. Mark as Point a.

From Point a draw a horizontal line 2 1/2″ long and label Point b.

7. Measure the G to G1 distance. Take half of this measurement and apply it on both sides of A on the line M-N. Mark Points c and d.

8. Join Points c and d with b to form the dart.

9. Continue the b to c line to the armole and label Point e.

10. Join point e with J1.

11. Measure the b to e line and apply the measurement from b through point d. Label Point 4.

12. Join Point F with P.

13. Draw a slightly slanted line from point b to the Shoulder line Point F-J1 and label Point g.

14. Cut from Poing g to Point b.

15. Fold the e-b-f dart. This will open up the b-g line into a Shoulder Dart.

Back Bodice with Shoulder Dart Pattern after opening Shoulder Dart.