Drafting the Unfitted Basic Bodice Back Pattern

Please read through all instructions before drafting.
See “How to Take Measurements” for complete instructions on obtaining your personal measurements used in this system.

Unfitted Basic Back Bodice

When a fitting shell is created do not add any ease to your body measurements.

Style ease is added to Chest and Bust when drafting a pattern that will be transformed into a particular style. The amount of style ease added varies. Each RetroGlam project will detail the amounts to be added to each basic pattern based on the style being created.

Note: The Sample Measurements used are for Misses Size 4. Substitute your own measurements when drafting this pattern. Perform any calculations in the patterns using your own measurements.

Completed Pattern draft is shown without seam allowances. Add 1/2″ seam allowances after pinning pattern to fabric. Measure out from pattern edges using Tailor’s Chalk and a clear plastic ruler.

Measurements To Be Used (Sample Size is Misses 4–Substitute your own measurements)

Chest Circumference…….33″
Back Bodice Length……..16 3/8″
Neckline……………… 2 5/8″
Back Shoulder to Waist….15 1/4″
Shoulder Width………… 4 1/4″
Underarm Length……….. 7 5/8″
Cross Back Width ………12

Unfitted Basic Bodice Back and Pattern.

1. Calculate one-fourth of your Chest Circumference plus 1/2″. For Misses Size 4 the total is 8 1/4″ + 1/2″ = 8 3/4″.

2. Using the L-square ruler draw a rectangle using the measurement derived in Step 1 (8 3/4″) for the width and for the length use the Back Bodice Length. (Misses Size 4 is 16 3/8″. Label the rectangle A-B for the width, B-C for the length and then C-D and D-A as shown in the diagram.

3. From A to B apply the measurement Neckline less 1/4″. Label as Point E.

For Misses Size 4 this amount will be 2 5/8″ – 1/4 = 2 3/8″.

4. From E, draw a vertical line upwards one inch. Mark as Point F.

Join Ponts A and F by a curve to obtain the Neckline.

5. From C to B apply the measurement BBack Shoulder to Waist. Label Point G.

For Misses Size 4 this measurement is 15 1/4″.

6. From G, draw a hotizontal line to the vertial A-D line. Label Point H.

Continue the vertical F-E line to horizontal H-G line. Label Point I.

7. To the measurement for your Shoulder Width add 1/2″ for ease on the back shoulder.

For Misses Size 4 this measurement is 4 1/4″ + 1/2″ = 4 3/4″.

Using a clear plastic ruler, place one end of this measurement on Point F with the other end touching the horizontal H-G line.

Mark Point J at the intersection of these two lines.

Join Points F and J by a straight line.

8. From D to C mark off 1/8″ to 1/4″ (the amount will be finalized when the toile is fitted. It is better to start with 1/8″ to allow for extra room that can always be taken in later. Cut the center back seam with a 1″ allowance to allow for extra width.)

Label this Point K. Join Point K with A by a straight line to obtain the shaping in the Center Back. The A-K line is placed on the fold if there is no seam at Center Back. This will preserve the tubular shape of the Unfitted Bodice and prevent an excess of fabric from flarin out at the center back.

9. From Point C to G apply the measurement Underarm Length. Mark as Point L.

For Misses Size r this measurement is 7 5/8″.

10. From Point L, draw a hotizontal line to the A-K line and label Point M.

11. From Point M to L apply half the Cross Back Width and label Point N.

For Misses Size 4, the Cross Back Width is 12″, one half that measurement is 6″.

12. From Point N, draw a vertical line to horizontal H-G line. Label Point O.

Mark the center between Points N and O. Label Point P.

13. From N, cutting through the middle of the angle, draw a diagonal line 1/2″ to 3/4″ in length. (A shorter line results in a looser fitting armhole. A longer line will bring the armhole closer to the arm. A fitting will refine any changes needed in this area.)

Join Points J-P-Q-L with a curved line to obtain the back armhole.

14. Cut the pattern through points A-F-J-P-Q-L-C-K-A.

15. Note the distance between points F and I. This represents the Inclination of the Shoulder and will be used for drafting the Front Bodice pattern.

The Inclination of the Shoulder is 2″ for a Misses Size 4.

When the Inclination of the Shoulder measurement is greater than 2″ it is necessary to create a Shoulder Dart after drafting the Basic Bodice Back.

Please see Basic Bodice With Shoulder Dart for further instructions.

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