Drafting the Unfitted Basic Bodice Front

Please read through all instructions before drafting.

See “How to Take Measurements” for complete instructions on obtaining your personal measurements used in this system.

Completed Pattern draft is shown without seam allowances. Add 1/2″ seam allowances after pinning pattern to fabric. Measure out from pattern edges using Tailor’s Chalk and a clear plastic ruler.


Unfitted Basic Bodice Front

When a fitting shell is created do not add any ease to your body measurements.

Style ease is added to Chest and Bust when drafting a pattern that will be transformed into a particular style. The amount of style ease added varies. Each RetroGlam project will detail the amounts to be added to each basic pattern based on the style being created.

Note: The Sample Measurements used are for Misses Size 4. Substitute your own measurements when drafting this pattern. Perform any calculations in the patterns using your own measurements.

Measurements To Be Used (Sample Size is Misses 4–Substitute your own measurements)

Bust Circumference…………..33″
Chest Circumference………….33″
Front Bodice Length………….17″
Neckline…………………… 2 5/8″
Underarm Length…………….. 7 5/8″
Cross Chest Width……………11″
Shoulder Width……………… 4 1/4″
Front Shoulder To Waist………14 1/4″
Neck to Bust Length…………. 9 1/2″
Bust Separation…………….. 7″

Calculations for Construction of The Pattern Rectangle

Calculate one-half the Bust Circumference. For Misses Size 4 this is one-half of 33″ = 16 1/2″.

Next, calculate one-fourth of the Chest Circumference. For Misses Size 4 this is one-fourth of 33″ = 8 1/4″.

Subtract the results as follows:
One-half the Bust Circumference – One-quarter the Chest Circumference = horizontal width of the Points A-B and C-D of the rectangle.

Sample calculation for Misses Size 4:
(1/2 of the Bust Circumference)16 1/2″ from (1/4 of the Chest Circumference) 8 1/4″ = 8 1/4″.

Basic Unfitted Bodice Front.

Basic Unfitted Bodice Front Pattern.

1. Using the L-square ruler draw a horizontal line using the result from the Calculations to draw the Points A-B. For the lengthwise line from B-C use the Front Bodie Length.

Misses Size 4 will have Points A-B = 8 1/4 and Points B-C = 17″.

Finish the rectangle drawing Points C-D (same as A-B) and Points D-A (same as B-C).

2. From Point B to C apply the measurement of the Neckline minus 1/2″ and label Point E.

For Misses Size 4 this will be 2 5/8″ – 1/4″ = 2 3/8″.

3. From Point B to A apply the same measurement of Neckline Minus 1/4″ and label Point F.

4. From F draw a line running parallel to line B-D. The length of this line shoujld be the same as the distance between Points B and E. Label Point G. Join Points g with E.

5. From G, cutting through the middle of the angle, draw a line 1 1/8″ to 1 1/4″ in length. Label Point H.

Join Points F-H-E by a curve to obtain the Front Neckline.

6. Measure in the Back Pattern the distance between points F-I, Inclination of the Shoulder and apply this measurement from Point A to D. Label Point I.

For Misses Size 4, the Inclination of the Shoulder = 2″.

7. From Point I draw a horizontal line 5″-6″ long and label Point J.

8. Using a clear plastic ruler apply the measurement Shoulder Width beginning at Point F with the ruler touching the I-J line at the end of the measurement.

For example, the Shoulder Width for Misses Size 4 is 4 1/4″. Place the ruler at the 1″ point at Point F of the pattern. Angle the ruler down until the 4 1/4″ mark hits the I-J line. Label this Point K.

Join Points F and K by a straight line.

9. From I to D apply the measurement Front Shoulder to Waist and label Point L.

For Misses Size 4 the Front Shoulder to waist is 14 1/4″. From I-L will measure 14 1/4″.

10. From Point L measure upwards the Underarm Length and label Point M.

For Misses Size 4 this will be 7 5/8″.

11. From M, draw a horizontal line to vertical line BC. Label Point N.

12. From N to M apply Half the Cross Chest Width and label Point O.

As an example, the Misses Size 4 Cross Chest Width is 11″. One-half of that is 5 1/2″. So for this size Point N-O will be 5 1/2″.

13. From Point O, draw a vertical line to horizontal line I-J and label Point P.

Mark the center between Points O-P and label it Point Q.

14. From O, cutting through the middle of the angle, craw a line 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ long. Label Point R.

15. Join Points K-!-$-M by a curve to obtain the front armhole.

16. From Point B to C apply the measurement Neck To Bust and label Point S.

For Misses Size 4 this is 9 1/2″

17. From Point S, draw a horizontal line to vertical A-D line. label Point T.

18. From S, mark Half of the Bust Separation and label Point U.

For example the Bust Separation for Misses Size 4 is 7″. Half of that is 3 1/2″. So for Size 4 S-U equals 3 1/2″.

19. Join Point U with M by a straight line.

20. Measure the distance between Points L-D.

For Misses Size 4, this equals 5/8″.

Apply this measurement down from Point M to D. Label Point V.

21. From U draw a straight line through Point V. The length of this line should be the same amount as the distance between U and M, Point W.

22. From Point W, draw a vertical line to the leel of the horizontal line D-C. Label Point X.

Join Point X with D.

Important Note: Check the X-W distance. It has to be the same as the Underarm Length measurement. If it is longer, shorten the X-W distance to the right meaasurement by lowering Point W.

23. To avoid a dart that is too pointy at the Bust Apex (Point U), it is necessary to shorth the length of the dart legs.

From U to W and From U-M, shorten the dart legs by 1/2″ to 3/4″. Mark the new point U1 and redraw the dart legs from there.

Advertisements