For all my followers it has been a long progress to watch me advance in the Donna Skirt and Blouse Project. This is because it’s not only been a sewing project but a reawakening of my patternmaking, fitting and sewing sense.
Part of the delay in completing the blouse was due to modifications needed to the collar. I also had to add more style ease to make the blouse more comfortable to wear. The final blouse has 3″ of ease added to the Chest Circumference, Bust Circumference and Hip Circumference. The Waist Circumference ended up having 2″ of ease added.
Another part of the blouse construction that required a revisit was the application of the collar to the neckline. In the second version of this blouse I used a back neckline facing with great success. The finished Collar fits smoothly around the entire neckline plus the facing provides a good place to hand sew a custom label.
“Couture Sewing Techniques” by Claire Shaeffer explains that a basic skirt pattern with front and back darts can be used to create a hip yoke for a couture influenced blouse worn tucked into skirts or pants. I decided to experiment by closing the darts to give the waistline yoke a more A-Line shape and more wearing ease. It has worked out very well.
I’m also much happier with this version of the blouse than the first one. The lightweight cotton shirting showed here was just right for the style. I also like the print very much because it reminds me of the kind of blouses and dresses my Mom used to wear in the 1950s and early 1960s.