Basic Unfitted Bodice and Sleeve: Fitting the Toile

Basic Unfitted Bodice and Sleeve Toile.

The toile for my size 4 dress form needed a few alterations. The neckline had to be lowered 1/4″ all around. The Upper Arm Circumference of the sleeve needs about 3/4″ more added to it.

It is important to remember that the basic pattern, whether fitted or unfitted, is supposed to replicate the shape of the body for which the pattern is drafted. This is why it is called a fitting shell. It is supposed to fit as closely as possible.

The Unfitted Basic Bodice should hang straight below the bust and form a tubular shape around the body. The sleeve, likewise, will be tubular.

Now that the fitting of the basic toile is completed, I’ll show you how to add the extension for buttonholes at Center Front and an attached Facing.

Then we’re ready to perform a few simple pattern transformations and we’ll be off to make a retro inspirted Secretary’s Blouse.