The pattern is completed by adding ease at the hipline and one dart tuck in the front and two dart tucks to the back blouse patterns.
The Basic Unfitted Bodice Front and Back are lengthened for a blouse.
The Basic Unfitted Bodice is drafted to include Style Ease as described in Part 1 of this series of postings for the Secretary Blouse.
The vintage pattern illustration used as the basis for the RetroGlam Secretary Blouse has a horizontal side dart. The instructions which follow detail how to create this dart on the Basic Unfitted Bodice Front.
Drafting the Gathered Blouse Sleeve with Placket and Basic Cuff
The instructions which follow will create a sleeve similar to the vintage pattern illustration which is the source of inspiration for the RetroGlam Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow.
The Basic Unfitted Sleeve is the basis for the Gathered Blouse Sleeve with Placket. It is drafted AFTER you have completed the pattern draft which includes style ease for the Basic Unfitted Bodice Front and Back.
The Bodice Front and Back must be drafted first in order to calculate the Cap Height and proof the armhole curve against the sleeve cap curve to check ease.
To create this sleeve style ease must be added to your measurements.
For the preliminaries please refer to:
This posting is the first in a series showing how to transform the basic unfitted bodice and sleeve into the 1950s Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow.
For the preliminaries please refer to:
How to take Measurements
How to Draft the Basic Unfitted Front and Unfitted Back Bodice
How to Draft the Basic Unfitted Sleeve
Basic Back Bodice with Shoulder Dart
The Basic Unfitted Bodice Front and Back is the basis for the Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow.
First, draft the bodice patterns by following instructions for adding style ease.
ADDING STYLE EASE TO BASIC UNFITTED BACK BODICE PATTERN
Follow instructions for drafting the Unfitted Basic Bodice Back and add 3″ to your Chest Circumference.
For example, Misses Size 4 Chest Circumference is 33″.
33″ + 3″ Style Ease=36″.
Use the resulting measurement when performing the calculations to draft the Unfitted Basic Bodice Back.
Remember that if the F-I is greater than 2″ you must add a shoulder dart to the Back Bodice Pattern. See drafting instructions for adding a shoulder dart to the back bodice pattern.
ADDING STYLE EASE TO THE BASIC UNFITTED BODICE FRONT PATTERN
Style ease is added to the Bust Circumference and Chest Circumference.
For a blouse 3″ of ease is added.
Misses Size 4 Chest is 33″.
33″+3″ style ease=36″ Chest Circumference
Misses Size 4 Bust is 33″.
33″+3″ style ease=36″ Bust Circumference
Use your own measurements when performing the calculations.
The resulting measurement is used when drafting the patterns.
I completed drafting the pattern and making the toile for my take on the vintage pattern envelope illustration I found at Pinterest.
I started with a Basic Unfitted Bodice Front and Back to which 3″ of style ease was added for Chest, Bust and Hip Circumference. The Basic Unfitted Sleeve had 3″ style ease added to the Upper Arm Circumference. Then this sleeve was transformed into a shirt sleeve with gathers and a button cuff. A slit with placket was created at the back of the sleeve.
There are vertical tucks in the Front Bodice running from the hem up to 1″ above the waistline. There are four of these tucks, 2 on each side, of the Back Bodice. These tucks give some control at the waistline and will create a nice shape for the blouse when it is tucked into the skirt. I’ve noticed that the vintage blouses that do not have waistline yokes often have several vertical tucks or darts running from under the bust the hem in the front and back. I think this shaping was very important given how closely skirts were fitted, especially in the 1950s.
The vintage pattern has a lower neckline and larger bow. I would love to see a photo of how that pattern worked out because illustrations are the ideal while a photo can show the real. Since I take inspiration from a Misses Size 4 and consider what a woman who weighs about 120 lbs. and is 5′ 5″ to 5′ 6″ would look good in, I decided to raise the neckline slightly and make the Pussycat Bow smaller.
I plan to work on the shaping at the ends of the bow some more.
The bow is cut on the true bias. It works out very well since the roll at the neckline is very soft and the bow should have a nice drape in the fashion fabric.
I will post the pattern transformation instructions next week. To keep the posts manageable, there will be several so that each part of the pattern can be presented in detail. The pattern pieces consist of:
1. Basic Unfitted Bodice Front, with slight shaping at side seam and vertical tuck from hem to 1″ above Waistline. V-neckline is created which ends 1″ above the apex point.
1a. Front and Back Neckline Facing.
2. Basic Unfitted Bodice Fack, with slight shaping at side seams. Two vertical tucks on each side of Center Back provide additional shaping.
3. Basic Shirt Sleeve with cuff. The basis is the Basic Unfitted Sleeve.
4. Pussycat bow.