Secretary Blouse with Pussy Cat Bow Part 2: The Blouse Sleeve

Drafting the Gathered Blouse Sleeve with Placket and Basic Cuff

The instructions which follow will create a sleeve similar to the vintage pattern illustration which is the source of inspiration for the RetroGlam Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow.

The Basic Unfitted Sleeve is the basis for the Gathered Blouse Sleeve with Placket. It is drafted AFTER you have completed the pattern draft which includes style ease for the Basic Unfitted Bodice Front and Back.

The Bodice Front and Back must be drafted first in order to calculate the Cap Height and proof the armhole curve against the sleeve cap curve to check ease.

To create this sleeve style ease must be added to your measurements.

For the preliminaries please refer to:

How to take Measurements
How to Draft the Basic Unfitted Front and Back Bodice
How to Draft the Basic Unfitted Sleeve

Basic Blouse Sleeve gathered into Cuff. This illustration shows a French Cuff.

BASIC CUFF

The cuff for the blouse is drafted first. The height is doubled so that the cuff is constructed in one piece.

The height of the cuff determines the adjustment needed to the Arm Length when drafting the sleeve.

Cuff Height can vary greatly with the style and what looks best for your arms and hands.

I’ve found that a finished Cuff Height of 1 1/2″ works very well for Sizes 4, 6 and 8. This is the Cuff Height used for the Secretary Blouse Gathered Shirt Sleeve.

Mearements needed (Misses Size 4 used as an example. Subsitute your own). Style ease is added.

1. Wrist Width (Misses Size 4=8″) plus 3/4″ style ease…8 3/4″

2. Add to this measurement 1″ for the overlap. For Misses Size 4 the total is now 9 3/4″.

Note: You may need slightly more or less than 3/4″-1″ of style ease for the Wrist. Much will depend on the thickness of the fabric and interfacing you use.

Basic Cuff Pattern. I always fold on the C-F-D line and then cut the completed pattern out. The C-F-D line is placed on the lengthwise grain. Cuffs have a softer appearance when folded on the outer edge.

Drafting the Basic Cuff

1. Make a rectangle appying as horizontal the amount obtained when adding style ease plus overlap to your Wrist Width. For Misses Size 4 this is 9 3/4″. Mark points A-B.

2. For the vertical line apply double the width of the cuff. For Misses size 4 (1 1/2″ x 2) this is 3″. Mark Points A-D and B-C.

3. From A and D mark inward 1″ for the overlap.

4. Fold Line A-B to D-C and open. Draw line and mark as Fold Line for the cuff. Label points I-J.

DRAFTING BASIC UNFITTED SLEEVE WITH STYLE EASE FOR THE SECRETARY BLOUSE

Misses Size 4 Measurements are used. Please subsitute your own. Note the style ease needed.

Upper Arm Width (Misses 4=11 1/2″)+3″ style ease…14 1/2″

Cap Length (after performing calculations)- Measure your own pattern and note the exact measurement.
For Misses Size 4 the Cap Length is 5 3/4″.

Arm Length (Misses Size 4)……………………..23″
The Arm Length is shortened by the height of the finished cuff. For the Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow the finished cuff height is 1 1/2″.

Arm Length (Misses size 4) 23″ – 1 1/2″=21 1/2″

Use 21 1/2″ as the Arm Length when drafting the Basic Unfitted Sleeve.

DEVELOPING THE BLOUSE SLEEVE GATHERED INTO CUFF WITH PLACKET

Basic Blouse Sleeve Pattern with placket.

1. Do not mark points S and T of the Basic Unfitted Sleeve and do not taper the side seams.

2. On the Basic Unfitted Sleeve Pattern, mark the center of the D-F distance and label Point a.

3. From Point a mark 1/2″ downward. Label Point b.

4. Mark the center of the F-C distance and label Point c.

5. From Point c mark 1/2″ upwards. Label Point d.

6. Join pointd D-b-F-d-C by a curve as illustrated.

7. From Point b mark 3″ upwards for the slit where the blouse sleeve placket will be sewn.

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