Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 1: The Bodice Pattern

This posting is the first in a series showing how to transform the basic unfitted bodice and sleeve into the 1950s Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow.

For the preliminaries please refer to:

How to take Measurements
How to Draft the Basic Unfitted Front and Unfitted Back Bodice
How to Draft the Basic Unfitted Sleeve

Basic Back Bodice with Shoulder Dart

The Basic Unfitted Bodice Front and Back is the basis for the Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow.

First, draft the bodice patterns by following instructions for adding style ease.

ADDING STYLE EASE TO BASIC UNFITTED BACK BODICE PATTERN

Follow instructions for drafting the Unfitted Basic Bodice Back and add 3″ to your Chest Circumference.

For example, Misses Size 4 Chest Circumference is 33″.
33″ + 3″ Style Ease=36″.

Use the resulting measurement when performing the calculations to draft the Unfitted Basic Bodice Back.

Remember that if the F-I is greater than 2″ you must add a shoulder dart to the Back Bodice Pattern. See drafting instructions for adding a shoulder dart to the back bodice pattern.

ADDING STYLE EASE TO THE BASIC UNFITTED BODICE FRONT PATTERN

Style ease is added to the Bust Circumference and Chest Circumference.

For a blouse 3″ of ease is added.

For example,

Misses Size 4 Chest is 33″.
33″+3″ style ease=36″ Chest Circumference

Misses Size 4 Bust is 33″.
33″+3″ style ease=36″ Bust Circumference

Use your own measurements when performing the calculations.

The resulting measurement is used when drafting the patterns.

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