Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 4: Lengthening the Bodice and Shaping the Neckline

The Basic Unfitted Bodice Front and Back are lengthened for a blouse.

1. Shorten the dart by 1/2″ to 3/4″ away from Point U towards the left. Mark a dot for the new Apex Point and redraw the dart legs to Point a on each side of the dart.

2. Necklines for blouses and dresses were somewhat modest in everyday wear for the 1930s-1950s. A scoop neckline or V-Neckline would usually end about 1″ above the bust apex point.

Measure on your pattern 1″ up from the Apex and mark at Center Front of the front Bodice.

3. Draw a straight line from the Neckline to the mark as shown in the illustration above.

4. Mark the midway point on the new neckline. Measure in 1/4″. Using the French Curve or Hip Curve ruler, draw a very slightly curved line by having the ruler touch right against the neckline, the midway point and the ending 1″ above the new apex point. This creates a more flattering shape for the V-neckline and will result in the Pussycat Bow fitting smoothly once it’s sewn in.

5. From the waistline Point C measure down about 7-8″ for the Hipline of the Blouse. (Point b). Draw a line across and then up to the side of the bodice.

6. Repeat Step 5 for the Back Unfitted Bodice Pattern, too.

7. No shaping of the back neckline is needed.

8. Cut away the bodice portion to the right of the new, curved V-Neckline. Your Front Unfitted Bodice will look like Illustration 2.