Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow Part 5: Adding Ease at Hipline and Dart Tucks

The pattern is completed by adding ease at the hipline and one dart tuck in the front and two dart tucks to the back blouse patterns.

To Calculate the Hipline Ease

1. Measure up the hipline at the bottom of the Unfitted and Fitted Blouse Patterns. Add these two measurements.

2. Add 3″ of style ease to your own Hipline Measurement and then divide in half.

3. The measurement of the pattern should equal 1/2 your own Hipline Measurement with 3″ of style ease added in.

4. Often the Hipline of the Blouse does not equal your Hipline Measurement + 3″ of style ease so an adjustment is needed to the front and back blouse pattern. When the Blouse Pattern Hipline is smaller proceed to Step 5.

If there is sufficient ease at the Hipline of the Blouse Pattern omit Step 5.

5a. Take the measurement of the Front and Back Blouse pattern Hipline and multiply by 2.

5b. Use the total amount from the result of the calculation made in 5a and subtract it from your own Hip Measurement + 3″ of style ease.

5c. The difference represents the amount of ease to add to the pattern. Since the pattern represents 1/2 of your body you need to apply 1/4 of the difference arrived at in 5b to each side of the pattern at the hipline.

For example,

The hipline of the pattern front and back equals 17″. Multiplied by 2 the pattern hipline is 34″.
Your hipline + 3″ style ease equals 37″.
Subtracting 34 from 37 gives 3″ of additional ease needed at the pattern hipline.
Divide 3″ by 4 to get 3/4″.
3/4″ is applied outward from the side of the front and back blouse pattern at the hipline.

6. As shown in the illustration, there is a slightly slanting line that is drawn from the tip of the armhole at the Back Bodice from the new side along the hipline.

7. The horizontal dart on the front bodice is pinned closed and a line from the hip to the end of the armhole is drawn. Remove the pins and open the horizontal dart.

8. At the waistline of front and back blouse pattern, measure in 1/8″ to 1/4″. Using the French or Hipline Curve ruler, draw a slightly shaped line from the armhole down to the waist and then straight from the waist to the new hipline as shown in the illustration.

9. Drawing the dart tuck on the Front Blouse Pattern:

Extend a line from the new apex point down to the hipline of the blouse.
At the waistline measure 3/8″ to either side. (f and g)
From the waistline measure 1″ up (d and e) and draw a horizontal line. This is the beginning of the dart tuck.
At the hipline measure 1/8″ to either side of the vertical line.
Draw dart tuck connecting these points.

10. The back dart tucks are drawn using the same measurements and in the same manner except that:

The center of the dart tuck closest to Center Back is placed in the center of the K-e distance as shown in the illustration above.

The center of the second dart tuck is drawn 1 1/2″ to the right of the center of the first tuck. 3/8″ is marked at the waistline to either side of the center of each tuck. 1/8″ is measured to each side at the hipline.

11. Follow the instructions for creating a facing for the front bodice pattern as described in Adding a Facing for a Blouse. Since the neckline here is V-shaped you’ll fold along the extension line and cut out the neckline as shaped for this pattern.

12. The Blouse Front and Back Pattern is now completed.

Next pattern diagram will be for the Pussycat Bow along with a few considerations of why it looks beautiful when cut on the true bias.