RetroGlam Secretary Blouse with Pussycat Bow: Photos of the Size 4 Flat Pattern

The shape of the final flat pattern is determined by your measurements, figure type and any alterations needed. Here are photos of how the pattern turned out for Misses Size 4 after completing all the steps for making the pattern.

Front Bodice Pattern.

The addition of the 3″ of style east to the Chest Circumference and Bust Circumference provided enough room for the upper torso but an extra 3/4″ had to be added at the Hip level of the blouse on Front and Back Bodice patterns. This gave a total of an additional 3″ at the Hipline which made the toile fit nicely over the entire body.

Back Bodice Pattern.

The Center Back seam is not straight because in this patternmaking system it is shaped along the line from top to bottom. The bottom is about 1/8″-1/2″ in from the edge of the Center Back line to provide some fitting in that area. I have tried cutting the Center Back line of the Unfitted Bodice along the straight line and found that the toile will have excess fabric at Center Back. Usually it increases slightly in width at the waistline. While it’s true that the Center Back is slightly off grain when cut on the fold, the resulting fit is smooth so I go with the way the system was created and use this line instead.

Back Neckline Facing and Cuff Patterns.

I’ve come to prefer a Back Neckline Facing when finishing all neckline treatments even when sewing in a collar or bow. The resulting construction is very easy and so long as the fabric is opaque there is no issue about how the blouse looks from the outside.

Blouse Sleeve with Gathers and Placket.

The pattern for the Blouse Sleeve with Gathers and Placket had to have the Center Lengthwise Grainline moved about 1/2″ towards the Front of the Sleeve. This enabled the sleeve to balance and provided the needed inches so that the back sleeve cap could smoothly fit into the armhole curve.

Pussycat Bow Pattern.

Many Pussycat Bow patterns are not this wide because they do not require extra width for a foldover. This was my interpretation of the original. The bow is folded over to softly fall against the neckline. The fold breaks at the point 3/4 above Center Front where the bow is knotted and then fluffed into fullness.