Sewing the zipper (continued from Sheath Skirt with Modesty Kickpleat and Zipper Hidden in Seam Pt.2 of 3).
7. Sorry about the blurry photo. I did not realize it until after I’d uploaded to the computer. It was too late to take another since the zipper installation was completed. Anyway, with your hand sewing needle and a single strand of conditioned thread, sew tiny running stitches along the zipper tape.
Note: Unlike Claire Shaeffer’s diagram, the top of the zipper is not folded under since it will be sewn into the waistline once the waistband is applied.
8. Stitch a second line of tiny running stitches parallel to the first row of stitching.
9. At the end of the seam knot your second row of running stitches. Then fell stitch the outer edge of the zipper tape to the kick pleat extension. This extra stitching secures the zipper to the fabric.
10. Place the left side of the skirt over the right along Center Back. Use diagonal basting to hold the seams in place. Pin and baste the left side of the zipper through both layers of fabric. The amount to mark from the Center back to hand sewing line is the same amount as the mark on the zipper tape from Center back to the markings on zipper tape that act as a stitching guide.
11, This is how the zipper tape looks from the wrong side on the left hand extension. I basted from this side.
12. Remove the diagonal basting and open the zipper. From the right side sew a row of tiny running stitches. At the end do not stitch over across the bottom of the zipper.
13. Now run a second line of running stitches on the zipper tape but only pick up the seam, not the fabric on the right side. Then fell stitch edge of zipper tape to the seam.
14. Close the zipper and place skirt right side up. Run a line of running stitches from Center Back t where the stitching to the tape begins. Only stitch the top layer of the fabric. Do not pick up the zipper tape.
A very tiny vertical bar tack is sewed at the point along center back where the zipper ends. The application is complete at this point. I recommend using a press cloth over the right side of the fabric and then pressing using short bursts of steam to get the seam flat.
The next tutorial will be about applying the lining to this skirt.