Sheath Skirt with Modesty Kickpleat and Zipper Hidden in Seam Pt. 3 of 3

Sewing the zipper (continued from Sheath Skirt with Modesty Kickpleat and Zipper Hidden in Seam Pt.2 of 3).


7.  Sorry about the blurry photo.  I did not realize it until after I’d uploaded to the computer.  It was too late to take another since the zipper installation was completed.  Anyway, with your hand sewing needle and a single strand of conditioned thread, sew tiny running stitches along the zipper tape.

Note:  Unlike Claire Shaeffer’s diagram, the top of the zipper is not folded under since it will be sewn into the waistline once the waistband is applied.


8.  Stitch a second line of tiny running stitches parallel to the first row of stitching.


9.   At the end of the seam knot your second row of running stitches.  Then fell stitch the outer edge of the zipper tape to the kick pleat extension.  This extra stitching secures the zipper to the fabric.


10. Place the left side of the skirt over the right along Center Back.  Use diagonal basting to hold the seams in place.  Pin and baste the left side of the zipper through both layers of fabric.  The amount to mark from the Center back to hand sewing line is the same amount as the mark on the zipper tape from Center back to the markings on zipper tape that act as a stitching guide.


11, This is how the zipper tape looks from the wrong side on the left hand extension.  I basted from this side.


12. Remove the diagonal basting and open the zipper.  From the right side sew a row of tiny running stitches.  At the end do not stitch over across the bottom of the zipper.


13. Now run a second line of running stitches on the zipper tape but only pick up the seam, not the fabric on the right side.  Then fell stitch edge of zipper tape to the seam.


14. Close the zipper and place skirt right side up.  Run a line of running stitches from Center Back t where the stitching to the tape begins.  Only stitch the top layer of the fabric.  Do not pick up the zipper tape.

A very tiny vertical bar tack is sewed at the point along center back where the zipper ends.  The application is complete at this point.  I recommend using a press cloth over the right side of the fabric and then pressing using short bursts of steam to get the seam flat.

The next tutorial will be about applying the lining to this skirt.
















2 thoughts on “Sheath Skirt with Modesty Kickpleat and Zipper Hidden in Seam Pt. 3 of 3

  1. I like the idea of the modesty kick pleat. I’ve got some Welsh flannel waiting to be made into a skirt; I was thinking of a long button front skirt but I think I’ll hold off until you get to the end of this.
    It’s such precious fabric to me that I really need to think about what I’m going to do very carefully.
    Looking forward to the rest of your posts.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Happy New Year, Norma. I think you should hold on to your precious Welsh flannel because once you cut it, then other possibilities are no more. The one thing I forgot to mention about this kick pleat concerns the pressing. The skirt has to be hand pressed from the inside. The presser has to ensure that the kick pleat is not lying flat to one side once the steam is applied. What happens is that due to the weight of the left side an impression is created and the fabric gets shiny. I will include this point once I line the skirt and give it a final pressing.

      There are still cleaners who do hand pressing. We call them French Dry Cleaners. They’re a little more expensive but their work is so beautiful. Blouses come back with paper stuffed into the sleeves. And sleeves do not have any crease pressed into them. Of course if one uses a washable fabric then you can press yourself following these instructions.

      I had a bitter experience about two years ago when making this skirt. I used a beautiful 100% wool gabardine. The dry cleaner did not listen to me. I found out the cleaning was NOT done on premises. Clothes were pressed using a presser machine. Oh, the results really cause me grief. There along the back was the shiny impression of the kick pleat.

      I hope this little story helps you consider design features for your precious flannel fabric so that you can incorporate the right details that will be suitable to how you care for the resulting garment. It is so easy to forget things like this. That is why if I mess up I try to learn and let others learn from it.


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