As promised here are the drafting instructions for a gored skirt using the method I spoke about in previous postings. The patternmaking system was created at some time in the 1950s. This pattern represents some simplifications I made to the process as well as some additions. The original did not include any allowances for style ease. My first attempt at drafting a gored skirt turned out too tight.
Please, Please, Please make a muslin. You must test the method and adjust it to suit your own unique figure. Spending time to ensure a good fit will save you money and worry later. Nothing ever hides a poor fit so consider time spent on a muslin an educational process that will ensure a wonderful garment once your fashion fabric is cut.
Permissions to re-use
This pattern can be freely circulated and reused for whatever purpose you want. I’d love to see any photos of finished skirts you make.
Six Gore Skirt Drafting Instructions
Before drafting this skirt pattern please see How to Take Measurements.
The measurements used in this pattern are for a Misses Size 4. They are used to provide an example. You will substitute your own measurements to draft your custom pattern.
The Flattering Qualities of a Gored Skirt
Gored skirts are flattering to all figure types, especially when the pattern is drafted to your own measurements. This is because the pattern is drafted with a slight curve from waist to abdomen or waist to hipline. After the slight curve, the line becomes straight and ends however many inches from the center of the skirt that you want. The greater the width of the hemline the more flare and movement the gores will have.
The point at which the curve stops is best determined by your own hip and abdomen measurements. In general these are the guidelines:
—If your hips are larger than your abdomen let the flare start at the hipline. If this is your body type, then you will use the measurement Waist to Hip line for points A-C.
—If your abdomen is larger than your hip let the flare start at the abdomen. In this case you will use the measurement Waist to Abdomen for Point A-C.
The Front Skirt Length used is completely up to you. A length of 27-30” will give you a retro looking skirt reminiscent of the 1930s. To achieve such an effect use the diagram for creating a Trumpet Skirt with flare starting at the hip line.
Style Ease to add to measurements
For a gored skirt add 1-2” of ease for the abdomen or hipline. To the waist add about 1/2″ of ease.
Misses Size 4 Measurements (used for an example) for a Gored Skirt Pattern
Waist 24”+ 1/2″ ease=24 ½”
Abdomen Circumference 35”+1” ease=36”
Hip Circumference 36”+ 1” ease=37”
Waist to Abdomen 4”
Waist to Hip 8”
Front Skirt Length 28”