Lining the sheath skirt with modesty kickpleat

The pattern for the lining is drafted the same as the skirt pattern except that the lining at the back left side of the skirt is cut 2″ – 2 1/4″ in from Center Back. The pattern is drafted without seam allowances. All seams are 1/2″ wide.

In most of these photos you are looking at the inside (wrong side) of the skirt and the right side of the lining. Where you see an “R” it means the this will be the right side of the skirt when it’s worn. “L” means the left side of the skirt when worn.

All turned in edges of skirt and lining kickpleat panels are steam pressed before pinning and basting together.

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Step 1

1. Turn the skirt inside out. Pink the edges of the right side of the lining if your fabric shreds. A row of straight stitches or zig-zag stitches is good, too.

Using tailor’s chalk and a clear plastic ruler, mark 1/2″ on the wrong side of skirt back right.

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Step 2

2. Turn the edge along the chalk marked line so that it folds in the direction of the Center Back line. Here you can see it chalk marked and basted in green thread. I advise doing this for purposes of matching the kickpleat panels with the lining panels.

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Step 3

3. Here is how the skirt back Right panel looks from the outside of the fashion fabric. The Right part of the back panel gets sewn after the left. You will see why as we progress in this tutorial.

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Step 4

4. On the right side of the skirt’s left back panel, pink or finish the edge if to prevent fraying or shredding. Mark in 1/2″ with tailor’s chalk. Turn to the wrong side by pinning and basting.

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Step 5a

5a. Put an “L” for Left side on the lining. You are now ready to baste the left part of the lining to the left panel of the kickpleat inside the skirt.

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 Step 5b

5b. The left edge of the kickpleat panel is marked 1/2″ in with tailor’s chalk. This part of Step 5b has not been shown. Pin the basted left side of the back lining panel along the chalk marked line and baste into place.

Now, open the lining flat out with the kickpleat panel also lying flat so that only the lining and kickpleat panel are on the surface of the table. Make sure the left back skirt piece is not underneath.

Use a slip stitch to sew the lining to the kickpleat panel. If you were to attach the rest of the lining all around the skirt there is a good chance that while slip stitching you’d catch some threads from the left hand skirt piece. This would make the kickpleat panel attached to the skirt as well as the kickpleat. The result is that the skirt, when viewed from the outside, does not fall straight and smooth.

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Step 6

6. After slip stitching the lining to the edge of the left hand kickpleat panel, the rest of the lining is pinned and based into place around the skirt waist.

When reaching the right hand panel of the kickpleat, the lining is pinned and basted at the very edge of the panel.

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Step 7

 7. This is how the inside of the skirt looks after the lining has been completely attached.

 

 

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Step 8

8. Here you see the lining completely attached to the skirt. All that remains to be is for the right hand lining panel to be slip stitched to the skift right kickpleat panel.

When the skirt is worn it will look like this from the inside.

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 Step 9

9. Slip stitch the right hand lining to the right kickpleat panel.

Remove all basting threads. This is how the skirt looks from outside. The bottom portion will lie flat. The top portion is what will open when you walk. Since the width of the pleat ranges from 2″ to 3″ most of the leg will be covered.

The waistband is prepared and sewn in the same as for the Donna Skirt. When that is finished the skirt is placed on the dress form or hung up for 24-48 hours so the grain settles. Then the hems of lining and skirt are finished and turned up for hemming.

The point at which the kickpleat opens can be finished with a crow’s foot embroidery or a small bar tack. It’s up to you. A crows foot draws attention to the opening of the kickpleat and looks beautiful when done in silk thread. But it has to be very neat. I think a bar tack is more discreet and less work. It doesn’t draw the eye downward. It’s up to you and how much emphasis you want to give the kickpleat.

I will prepare a series of photos showing how the finished hem looks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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