The fabric swatches came this past week and I enjoyed considering all the possibilities. The coral pink suiting fabric is very soft and light. I’ve decided this will be the fabric for the dress. The 1930 dress I’m using as an inspiration is featured in the book “Paris Frocks at Home” published by Butterick Patterns in 1930. As participants and readers of the
1930s Sew-along with Norma know, the project is taking on a life of its own.The original dress has unusual ties on the bodice and sleeves of the dress.
I plan to use one of the floral fabrics for the ties. Neither print is genuinely 1930s but to me there is a feeling about them based purely on association. My maternal Grandmother Josie loved small floral prints and I think if there were floral prints in her fabric stash they would have been used to make something for my Mom or curtains for the kitchen. What I have to do is cut and sew strips of the fabric into ties similar to the ones on the original design. Then I can gauge whether the smaller or larger print will look better against the dress fabric.
I’d welcome your comments on the combinations since coordinating prints and solids is not always my strong point.I think the ties on the original design are a nice touch and unusual in their placement and construction. For that reason I’m including close-up photos from the book in case anyone would like to try them out.
The pink coral crepe with a rayon challis print.
The pink coral crepe with a rayon georgette print.
How many of you prefer to be as authentic as possible and how many of you prefer to work with a blending of modern and retro elements when creating an outfit? Personally I take it as it comes because I want to enjoy the adventure.
It’s all in the details: bow ties on the 1930s dress
Updataed 5-29-16: Carol of bywayofthanks has tested the instructions for making the bow ties and posted about at her blog. She’s worked out lengths and widths for each tie that give good results. I plan to try them out when it comes time to make the bows for my toile.
All photos are of illustrations from “Paris Frocks at Home” published by Butterick Patterns in 1930.
I do not think I will sew the bow ties the way in which the original design recommends on the pattern instruction sheet. Putting a bias binding around a soft challis or georgette tie would, I think, stiffen it or worse cause puckering. I plan to sew two pieces together for each bow tie. Depending on how they look when turned to the right side I may or may not top stitch.
The unusual part of this bow tie is that one side is shorter in length than the other. I have always thought that ties and bows need to be equal in length. I will experiment with just how short one side of the tie should be once the toile is completed and I’ve time to focus on these smaller details.
Here are the instructions from the original Butterick pattern. If anyone has sewn a bow tie like this please share your experiences with me.
Bow ties adorn the front bodice and sleeves of the dress. Here you can see the instructions stating that some ties must be made shorter than others.
The bow ties are given a great deal of attention when it comes to finishing. The edges can be picoted and turned under. Or they can have a narrow hem. Either way there is much handwork with sewing and basting for such a small detail.
Another suggested finish is bias binding machine stitched around all edges of the bow tie. This seems a little too much for challis or georgette but might work on cotton. A solid color tie with a floral or plaid binding on the edge might be very eye catching if the color combinations work well.
On the sleeve the lower part of the seam is left open about 2″ with a button or some kind of short placket used to snap the sleeve closed. Then the ties are placed about the middle of the sleeve with the shorter ties towards the front. One set of ties is positioned towards the bottom while the lower one faces upwards.
The bow ties on the front bodice follow the same kinds of placement for top and bottom and shorter and longer ties. Do you think the ties are of unequal length so that when they are knotted the ends will be even?
This close-up of the finished dress shows bias binding for a finish at the sleeves an neckline. I plan to use the same fabric for the binding as I’m using for the dress. I think having the bow ties in a printed fabric is enough of a contrast.
The toile is cut and I hope to start hand sewing it together this weekend. I would so like to work on it continuously throughout this holiday weekend. However, Summer is definitely at our doorstep so I plan to go out and greet Her by taking a walk along the shore. If I have time I’ll post some photos here.