I’ve just discovered two on-line vintage books you’re sure to enjoy browsing through. They are complete and available for viewing. You’re able to print one page at a time but not download the entire book.
“The Mary Brooks Picken Method of Modern Dressmaking” by Mary Brooks Pickens was published in 1925. Many of the new techniques Mary promotes are now very familiar to the home sewist. What I found interesting were the chapters dealing with figure types and standard measurements. The average measurements give some indication that women did have curves and were not at all the wispy, tubular shaped girls we imagine when we think of the 1920s. There are many photos of garments, seam finishes and Mary at her sewing machine.
Use this link to get to the on-line book:
“Pattern Drafting, Pattern Grading, Garment Making, Garment Fitting” was written by a professional tailor named Edmund Gurney. He teaches a method of pattern drafting using standard measurements. This is done to keep the drafting, as he says, simple. A method for adjusting the resulting pattern to your own measurements is provided.
Mr. Gurney must have had what I’d consider a sparkling personality. He intersperses pages of poetry and witty quotes between the technical chapters. He does draw the reader in. I especially liked his family history and how one of the earliest ancestors became a tailor.
This book was published in 1939. The basic shell has the beginnings of what we see as the fitting shell used today. The main difference I see is that the 1939 fitting shell had an A-line type of skirt. Today ours is closer to a pencil skirt.
This book is available at: https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=coo.31924003596545;view=1up;seq=1