I’ve completed cutting out and sewing the sleeve for the dress I’m making as part of the 1930s Sew-along with Norma. I’m hoping with all my heart that it works out. I’ve yet to sew it into the bodice because I have to complete other parts of the bodice in this order:
- Sew the facing for the slot seam at center back.
- Sew the shoulder seams.
- Apply a new technique to miter the bias binding before sewing to the neckline.
- Sew the bias binding to the neckline and sleeve hem.
- Sew side seams of bodice.
This doesn’t seem like a lot to do but I’m in need of some serious nap time after a 4 hour train ride back to New York last Sunday and another travel day to New Jersey on Thursday. If it’s one thing I’ve learned it’s never to sew when sleepy. More time will be spent undoing stupid mistakes like sewing the sleeve in backwards. How many of you have done that, too?
The very first thing I did after cutting the new toile out was to stay stitch the neckline front and back. I also stay stitched part of the side seams. The sleeve, too, got stay stitched along the wrist and side seams because they are curved. The vertical dart has a very large intake. I do not think I will cut it open and press it flat. Instead, I’m going to trim the dart intake and press towards the center of the sleeve. I’ve decided to leave 2″ open from the bottom of the sleeve seam upwards. This will allow the sleeve to go on without any pulling. I think a button and thread loop will work as a closure.
The sleeve drafting instructions come from “Dress Cutting” by Margaret Ralston. She notes that the sleeve seam has to be placed 3/4″ in front of the bodice side seam. Now I have to figure out if the center marking on the sleeve cap should also go 3/4″ forward from the shoulder seam or match up at the shoulder seam. This is why I’m going to wait until I’m more rested to proceed with the next steps of the sewing.
Here are some progress photos…
Sleeve drafting instructions from “Pattern Cutting” by Margaret Ralston.
Drafted pattern after alteration to remove excess ease. If this works I’ll tell you all about it.
Sleeve before pressing seams and dart. Sleeve cap needs to be steamed.
This dart intake is very large but gives the wrist such a lovely curve. Now let’s hope the cap works out when sewn into the armhold.