Here’s a quick update on my progress with Version 3 of the toile of my dress for the 1930s Sew-along with Norma This version was created from a pattern drafted using the French Fashion method. The lessons I learned from my mistakes in draping were applied in how and where I used darts, type of dart, depth of flares for the skirt and depth of darts for the neckline.
This is it! The dress is officially now in progress. After three months of intensive attempts at draping I have come very far in developing my eye and assessment of what is needed for this dress. Despite all the failures with the drape and resulting toiles, I come away with the following:
*Understanding how much style ease is needed for a pull-over dress.
*The depth of the neckline needed for a pull-over dress.
*Use of a slot seam at center back to make putting the dress on easier.
*Using an old fashioned type of fitted sleeve with a vertical dart from wrist to elbow to create an attractive looking sleeve that has that certain something that distinguishes clothing from the past.
*A good depth for flares on a skirt.
*A good technique for applying bias binding to a V-neckline.
I will go into more detail once I finish the sleeve and it is sewn into the armhole. There is an excellent tutorial for working bias binding around a v-neckline that I recommend. Please visit How to bind an inverted corner (or v-neck) with bias binding at BurdaStyle.com It has provided me with the results I want. One thing I do realize is that using a pick-stitch or back stitch for sewing in the binding is not a good choice of stitch. It can cause some puckering. I’m going to try slipstitching the binding from the outside and inside as an alternative. I think handsewing like this might be better than machine topstitching.
I used Margaret Ralston’s technique for drafting the flared portion of the dress. The lessons learned from my draping failures made drafting this pattern very easy. Creating neckline darts was the only tricky part. Here are photos of the successful Toile Version 3.