Here’s a photo of some garden flowers from Brooklyn to all of my readers, friends and sister sewistas. Thank you for all your encouragement as I slowly make progress in the 1930s Sew-along with Norma..
The fabric is ready for cutting but—I’ve neglected my stock of supplies. I must order a roll of dressmaker’s tracing paper, stay tape, and interfacing. The rayon challis is very soft and will need a gentle support at the wrist and along the neckline. The Dritz nylon stay tape worked well for the toile but will not work on the challis. It’s really meant for knits but I think it has some use on woven fabrics, too.
Caroline at La Robe a Caro has me rethinking the stabilizing of a v-neckline. She’s made a gorgeous Bridgette Bardot dress with a curvy v-neckline. Caroline used ribbon to keep the neck from stretching and overall it has worked out. My v-neckline is not complex but still I’ve had it stretch when working on the toile. Stay stitching alone was not enough.
Never once did my 1930s guide book, “Paris Frocks at Home”, mention stay stitching or stay tape. I wonder how the sewistas of that decade coped with stretching necklines and waistlines. Today I always read that the selvedge from silk or poly organza is an all around stay tape of choice. I just do not think it will be enough for the rayon challis I’m using. So I’m thinking of using a 1/8″ or 1/4″ wide stay tape in cotton. I used this once when making a tailored jacket. It was hand stitched to armholes and roll lines. I think this might work for the dress.
I also need dressmaker’s tracing paper. I only know of one source where I can get it by the yard. That is from an old school supplier to the garment trade, Steinlauf & Stoller. Otherwise I’d be stuck ordering packets of Clover tracing paper that contain colored tracing paper I never use. The beauty of dressmaker’s tracing paper is that the white markings vanish after you steam press the seam or dart.
I’ll keep you updated on the supply order. I also have to find one ball button for the back closure at the neck. I’m hoping to find one in green glass or Lucite to match the buckle. And then there is the belt. The vintage glass-like buckle I’ll use requires a belt that will go through it but not have any eyelets. So that’s another adventure in making a belt.