Hello everyone! As promised, here’s how I’m using the new technique to finish the sleeves of the dress for the 1930s Sew-along with Norma. The approach for the sleeve is the same as for the v-neckline:
- Stay stitch and stabilize with style tape.
- Support with lightweight woven interfacing.
- Add a facing to finish the inside.
- Bind the hem using bias cut strip from the fashion fabric.
- Pin and baste into place.
- Slip stitch along the tape on the right and wrong side of the fabric.
The length of lace tape you see on the right acts as a stay for the long vertical dart. I used two rows of tiny running stitches to sew into place. The tape holds the dart in place so that it faces the center of the sleeve.
Interfacing was cut and hand stitched to the sleeve slightly below the sewing line on the wrong side of the fabric.
Close-up of the lace tape used as a stay for the dart. I made sure to position slightly inside of the machine stitched dart.
I then finished the seams of the sleeve by applying the lace hem tape to the wrong side of the sleeve. I stitched one edge using a running stitch. The edge was trimmed and hand overcast. I did this to add a touch of stability to this very drapey fabric. It also minimizes the shredding and makes the hand overcasting more durable
On the right side of the sleeve the pre-shrunk cotton stay tape was hand stitched slightly below the sewing line.
The facing of the sleeve was stitched, pressed and hand overcast at the upper edge.
Machine stitching was then used to sew all layers securely together. I used a medium length stitch right above the top of the stay tape.
The lower edge of the sleeve is trimmed. The seam was not graded.
The bias tape is pinned around the sleeve hen and overlapped at the sleeve’s underarm seam.
The tape is basted into place and then slip stitched on the right and wrong side of the sleeve.
I pinned the sleeve to check how it will hang. I think the bias tape and interfacing add just enough weight to give the sleeve a nice shape at the wrist and keep it straight once it is set into the armhole.
This entire process has to be repeated on the other sleeve. It’s very slow going but it’s working out. I hope you will get some ideas for finishing sleeves and necklines when using lightweight fabrics for which you need some extra support.