Naomi is getting into the flattering effects French darts create. She recently made a top using single French darts at the side seams. Encouraged by the results, she asked me how double French darts are created.
The pattern transformations that follow are from “The Custom Touch” by Mary J. Wadlington, published in 1981 by Gem Publications.
I recommend practicing on 1/2 or 1/4 scale pattern diagrams first.
Note: In some of the diagrams Mary leaves the vertical bodice dart and the skirt dart open. I have not used her system so I’m not in a position to say if this is good practice or not. My own experience has taught me that if a dart intake is not closed and integrated into the style line there will be a bubble or excess fabric looking awkward when the toile is created.
In the patternmaking system I learned, the vertical waist dart is closed and integrated into the bodice style line. The skirt dart is closed first and the flare created. Then the skirt is taped to the bodice with the vertical dart closed. The style line is created and then the paper pattern is cut.