To all my blog friends, readers and subscribers. A big thank you for following, advising, correcting and encouraging me during this year long journey from conception to creation for the 1930s Sew-along with Norma. I am happy to report the construction of the dress is completed. The project, though, is not. I still have to make the belt. And that is the element that will transform this late 1920-early 1930ish chemise into an attractive dress.
I’m thinking of making fabric covered buttons in the same green fabric that the belt will be made of. There would be five buttons along the vertical dart of each sleeve to create the look of of a buttoned closure. Right now I’m not sure. Further experimentation will show if this will work or not.
Here are progress photos of the completed dress along with construction details I learned along the way. Once the belt is completed the dress will get a professional hand pressing.
The vertical bust darts originating at the center of the front shoulder help keep the chemise shape straight. I have never worked with this kind of dart before but will consider it again should I make a dress or blouse where a straight side seam is used. It provides a nice flow to the fabric over the bust line. This kind of dart can also be transformed into tucks or gathers over the bust.
The vertical dart in the sleeve affects the way it looks from the back. It creates a forward movement from the elbow down. The sleeve has a nice fit around the wrist but is not tight. The vertical dart can be worked into an opening that closes with ball buttons and fabric loops. I’d like to use this sleeve again.
The flounce is on the lengthwise grain at center front and back. The side seams go off onto the bias. Even though the rayon faille is very lightweight, the extra weight of the fabric from the flounce made it slightly heavier than the tubular shaped bodice of the dress.
I found that rayon faille is a great fabric to work with for simple styles that float and drape around the body. To get the effect I wanted for this dress a little control was needed. I decided to improvise and created lightweight stays out of lace hem tape.
The lace stays for darts and seams
To keep the bust darts positioned and facing towards center front, I hand stitiched a length of Wrights Flex-Lace hem tape onto each dart inside the stitching line. This was done before pressing and sewing to the back bodice at the shoulder line. Two rows of tiny running stitches were used.
After joining the flounce to the bodice I noticed that there was a slight tendency on the bodice to look like the joining line was going to sag. To remedy that and prevent stretching, I encircled the joining seam above the stitching line with Wrights Flexi-Lace hem tape. A row of tiny running stitches above the sewing line and near the edge of the joining seam were used. Then the seam was pressed up towards the bodice.
The hem tape was awful to work with. It is Wrights Soft and Easy hem tape but I found it anything but that. Despite being washed and softened and steamed before use, it crinkled no end when applied to the circular hem. I will not be using it again. The plus side of using it is that is provided a nice weight at the hemline. From the right side the flares hold their place beautifully so I consider it a happy outcome. Still that rippling and crinkling get to me.
More Wright’s Flexi-Lace was used along the vertical sleeve dart before it was pressed towards the center vertical grain of the sleeve. The bonus which the stay provides is that there will be more support for the buttons if I decide to sew them along the dart line to create the look of a button closure on the sleeve.
I also used Flexi-Lace along the inside of the seam where the zipper was hand sewn. It provided the right support for all the hand stitching which followed: running stitches for the zipper, another row of running stitches to the inside tape along the seam and vinally the hand overcasting of the seam.
Since rayon faille is so twisty and lightweight, I found that the flounce had a tendency to move inward when placed on the dress form. I wanted the side seam to flare outward so I used a 1 1/2″ wide strip of soft lace hem tape which was stitched over the completed side seam of the flounce on each side. One row of running stitches that attached the lace only to the seams was used. The lace stay was applied after sewing the flounce and before attaching it to the bodice.
To keep the side and shoulder seams of the bodice and the seams of the sleeves flat I used lace stays on each seam before sewing the seam itself. Near the stitching line I used a running stitch. At the edge I hand overcast the rayon faille and lace together.